Protecting the Box
Fuse boxes get dangerous when the fuses used have a higher amperage than the wires can bear. This causes wire damage that can be dangerous. Therefore, if you buy an older house, you’ll want to hire an electrician to inspect it and continue to check on it every 5 years.
Some Common Issues and How to Fix Them:
Overlamping: This is when the bulb you’re using has too high of a wattage for the fixture it’s in. This is a code violation and highly dangerous. The intense heat increases the risk of arcing (meaning sparks leap from one wire to another and could cause a fire). To avoid this, use correct bulbs or 60 watt ones for older fixtures you’re unsure about.
Uncovered Junction Box: This is when the area in which wires are connected to each other isn’t covered. If touched, someone could get shocked by these wires. Even though it’s not very dangerous if the wires are out of reach, it is a code violation. To fix this, simply buy a inexpensive cover and install it over the wires.
Lights Flickering During Windstorm: This is caused by frayed wiring in the weatherhead (the place where the power lines connect to the house) that creates a short when the cables move. While this isn’t a code violation, it is highly dangerous. The frayed wiring can arc and start a fire. You should contact your electric utility company and see if they’ll replace the damaged items for you. It’s possible they’d do it for free.
Too Few Outlets: A sign of this is that you often rely on power strips and extension cords. This isn’t a code violation and is not very dangerous, as long as you use thicker wires (14-gauge or lower). Higher than that can overheat and start a fire if the loads are too heavy. To solve this problem, simply get more outlets. You’ll probably pay $100 for each one on the first floor and double that for ones done on the second floor. The walls and ceiling may have to be cut into to install them. Some electricians will fix it up once their done, while others will leave that for you to finish up.
No GFCIs: This creates increased risk of shock in wet areas because GFCIs shut down circuits in 4 milliseconds to avoid deadly shock in moist environments. This doesn’t violate any codes but is highly dangerous. Therefore, it is smart to replace old receptacles with GFCIs. You can do this for $12 each or have an electrician do it for about $20 apiece.
Overwired Panel: This is a panel containing more circuits than it’s intended to. This is because single-pole breakers (one circuit) have been replaced with tandem breakers (two circuits) in one slot. This isn’t a code violation and causes minimal danger. However, it could become a problem when you go to sell your home and inspector checks the panel. To fix this, install a sub panel with some extra slots ($250) or get a larger panel ($500-$800).
Aluminum Wiring: Cheap substitute for copper used in the 60s-70s. It’s not a code violation because it’s grandfathered in, but it is highly dangerous. This is because aluminum corrodes when it comes in contact with copper resulting in arcing and fires. A solution for this problem is to retrofit a dielectric wire nut (be sure it’s approved for aluminum wiring; a pair costs $1) onto each copper/aluminum connection in the light fixtures. They contain a grease that prevents corrosion but maintains conductivity. Make sure the replacement switches and receptacles are labeled AL-compatible.
Backstabbed Wires: This is when the wires on new switches and receptacles are just pushed into the back. These come loose easier than those that are anchored around screw terminals. This isn’t a code violation and the danger level depends—the receptacle or switch could quit working or a fire could even start. A solution to this is to remove the switch or receptacle. If one’s backstabbed, there’s probably more. Release the wires and then attach them to the proper screw terminals.
Ungrounded (2-prong) Receptacles: This means your house has no way to safely conduct any current that escapes the wires. This isn’t a code violation because it is grandfathered in. However, new installs are required to have proper receptacles. It’s not very dangerous as long as you don’t try to plug a three-pronged plug into one with an adapter. This could damage the device and will make the risk of electrocution stronger. It’s smart to replace them with three-pronged receptacles as long as the wiring allows it. Make sure the new ones are grounded (and rewire if they’re not) with a GFCI circuit tester.
Plug Falls Out of Receptacle: This means the contacts are worn and don’t grip the prongs firmly anymore. This isn’t a code violation but is highly dangerous. Arcing can ignite dust and dry wood, creating a fire. To fix this, replace the old receptacles for $2 per outlet or hire an electrician to do it ($8-$10 per outlet). In addition, chances are they’ll charge a minimum on small jobs.
Some Tips:
Safety: The Electrical Safety Foundation International reports 55,000 fires triggered by home-based electrical systems, 500 deaths, and 1,400 injuries in one year. To stay safe, remember to never use electrical equipment near or in water, don’t try to repair things if you’re not trained to, and never touch overhead wires (assume they’re always live). Also, use GFCIs in any area there’s moisture and have an electrician inspect the electrical equipment if it has come in contact with water.
Power Surge: In order to protect you, the electricity will shut off at times. If it does this in only one room, it’s probably just a tripped breaker. In this case, you’ll want to know which breaker in the panel goes to what in the house. You should take time one day to figure this out. It usually takes two people, or you can have an electrician do it.
Electrical Troubleshooting: Some things obviously aren’t safe for you to troubleshoot. In that case, you’ll want to call an electrician. Nevertheless, there are some things you can do yourself. There are several scenarios listed below and what you can do when they occur:
Electrical Outlet Stops Working: Check first to be sure the breaker isn’t tripped. If it isn’t and the outlet is black, replace it asap, even if part of the outlet still works.
Electrical Outlet Sparks: This is actually okay because at times it happens when there’s a quick draw of power. Other times it can be very dangerous as the fire is caused by built up inside and can melt the insulation on the wires. In addition, sparks can be caused by contact with water.
Lights Flickering: This is a sign of a poor (that will lead to a broken) connection. To solve this, you need to call an electrician.
Recessed Lights That Are On-Again/Off-Again: These lights contain a mechanism that keeps them from overheating. When that happens, they shut off. The reason for this is that the bulb is a bad match with the fixture or the insulation around it.
Appliances Tripping the Breaker: If you have several high-wattage appliances on a circuit, it may just be overloaded and keep tripping. To solve this, move them to a different circuit or have a new one installed.
Light Bulbs Burn Out Often: Frequently changing light bulbs means you may be using a bulb with a higher wattage than intended. Check the wattage on the fixture beforehand and use a bulb appropriate for it.
Troubleshoot Plan
It’s a good idea to have a strategy to keep yourself from panicking and to help you fix the problem.
- Gather information on the equipment and how it’s supposed to work. Check if there’s any technical documentation available and/or if you can find someone who is familiar with it and able to help.
- Understand the malfunction and how it works in the normal process when it’s functioning correctly.
- Check if anything can be measured. This will show if there’s too much or too little of a substance that is involved in this system.
- Use available data and analytical tools to isolate the defective component and to find the source of the problem. Isolate components (to evaluate their circuit parameters) or circuits by group (when you’re dealing with a complicated circuit).
- Repair the component that is damaged.
- Verify the repair. Perform a test run and make sure there’s nothing else that isn’t working and that there aren’t any underlying problems.
- Perform a root cause analysis to see what really caused the problem. This helps you to find a permanent solution in order to prevent it from happening again.
Checklist for an Electrical Inspector:
Here are a few things you should have an inspector check when you hire them.
Electric Meter: Check for defects—insecure installation, broken meter seals ,and rust/presence of water. Water can follow the service entrance cable from the meter box to the main panel.
Wires: Wires indoors and outdoors should be checked—at least those out in the open. Basements, attics, and crawl spaces are good places to check for wires laying on heat ducts or pipes that should be reported.
Main Panel Box: This is something you should never remove yourself. The panel box prevents electric current from hitting unsafe levels. An electrician will look for insufficient clearance, improperly sized circuit breakers, oxidation or corrosion, aluminum branch wiring, overheated components, and the presence of moisture.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) Outlets: These are outlets that contain small circuit breakers. They should be put in basements, garages, bathrooms, and kitchens. An electrician will check that they’re wired right and test them to be sure they’re working correctly.
Wall Switches: He/she will also take a look at all your wall switches for reversed polarity and undergrounded circuits. Signs there’s a problem are unsafe wiring and discolored, loose, or damaged switch plates.